Engine & Gearbox Torque Control arm

Discussion in '8th Generation (2008-2015) [Acura TSX]' started by Gazza, Sunday 7th Jul, 2019.

  1. Gazza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Gazza Borough Green
    44
    8
    Hi all
    Have any of you chaps had to replace the rear lower torque control mount on your 2008 on wards Accord diesel and why ? it sits just behind the engine oil drain plug under the removable under shield. I see that Cox's Honda Parts now list it as a Service Item.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. MattBeardless Service Team H-Tune Staff

    Hey @Gazza,

    If you drop us an email to sales@h-tune.co.uk with your reg, we should be able to see if we can get a replacement from Honda.

    We'll gladly see if we can get them for a good price for you. :Smile:

    Regards.
     
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  3. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    the price is outstanding. why they started to list this item? Its common problem for our diesels?
     
  4. MattBeardless Service Team H-Tune Staff

    I really wouldn't be surprised with the amount of torque they produce, plus mounts like thatget a hard time on almost every engine, especially as some of them are now up to 16 years old.
     
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  5. Gazza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Gazza Borough Green
    44
    8
    Hi
    I'm after the symptoms of one of these mounts beginning to fail. Our holidays are touring Europe with a caravan last year in hot weather in Italy i noticed a rather alarming knocking noise from the front of the car when driving over a bumpy road or over ridges in the tarmac anything not smooth now this is with and without the caravan this does not happen here in the UK in the cooler weather, I thought drop links so i changed them all front and rear and when i had the MOT some 2 months after returning I asked the mechanic to give it a very thorough test on ball joints and bushes etc it sailed through so i thought the drop links have sorted it. Just returned from Italy again and the exact same problem has happened again sounds like a bag of spanners but only in hot weather, now I'm home its fine again. This is why I'm looking at the torque mount. Anyone else tour or tow with a Diesel Accord Tourer ?
     
  6. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    Hello guys, as i though, there is a reason that this control arm appeared into coxmotor parts catalogue as service item.

    i just took a video of my gearbox damper, its gone :Smile: look:


    Here is some photos, the parts does not look identical, though,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    the arm is connectend with four bolts. While coxmotorparts part is conneted with three. So which one? :Smile:
     
  7. Gazza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Gazza Borough Green
    44
    8
    Hi The Cox's part must just be a picture of a generic Torque control arm mine is the same as yours four bolts, it is very easy to remove. Your video doesn't mean its gone you need to remove it the loose rubber you point out is part of the rubber moulding (see my pictures) do you have any knocking sounds?
    - - - Updated - - -
    Engine Assembly Lower Torque Rod Replacement

    1. Remove the two bolts securing the expansion tank.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    1. Loosen the upper torque rod mounting bolt (A).
    1. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    A

    1. Remove the engine undercover.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    1. Remove the lower torque rod (A).
    1. Install the lower torque rod, then tighten the new lower torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (1)
    14 x 1.5 mm
    93 N·m
    (9.5 kgf·m, 69 lbf·ft)

    Replace.
    (2)
    12 x 1.25 mm
    55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 41 lbf·ft)

    Replace.
    A

    1. Install the engine undercover.
    1. Lower the vehicle on the lift.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    1. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    14 x 1.5 mm
    93 N·m (9.5 kgf·m, 69 lbf·ft)

    1. Install the expansion tank.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    6 x 1.0 mm
    9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 7.2 lbf·ft)
     
  8. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    I only have very strange behavior when reversing. If i let the clutch more aggresively i can feel judger movement, like an engine boucing in the engine bay :Smile:
    While moving forwards - everything is okay.
     
    MattBeardless likes this.
  9. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    Hello guys, im sharing with an update. I just replaced my old torque control arm:

    The old one i took photos of both sides, it is torn.
    ec296e97696069b870aee5532afb8893.md.
    745adfcb638d9f211f40147491a06747.md.

    And here is "used" one, as you can see it is also have a slight markings, where it should (and will) tear eventually.
    But overall - good condition. It was 20euros.

    771c31852d73b9eb927e2c2dd5ed7d68.md.
    3788eecf66e847dbb523362b344948e9.md.

    o, this new/used control arms is very noticeable better than the old one, now reversing is almost smooth. I have had accord for 4 years now, and from the first day it has had this vibration, but i did not paid attention to this, i thought that diesel have to have these vibrations :Smile: Anyway, today, i was wrong, you should replace yours, if you have hoping engine when reversing. :Smile:


    Although, i am planning to fill this hole with polurethane material, and done this for a life time :Smile:
     
  10. Bounder Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    422
    200
    My Type-S I-DTEC has juddered in reverse from the first time I drove it, I have also seen a few posts where others were complaining about the ATS judder in reverse. Perhaps the ATS clutch is the difference or maybe the torque arm is gone or maybe they all do that?
     
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  11. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    Its common problem about these torque rods, they fail.
    Anyway Coxmotorspars offer you whole torque rod, while the replacement aftermarket part, i found, is this:
    https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/oenumber/50890tl0e01.html

    The failure point is in rubber bushing, as you can see in the photos.
     
  12. Bounder Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    422
    200
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  13. csak1981 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Christian Glasgow
    8
    1
    Hi everybody I've just joined as I've also had this judder in reverse since picking up car with 156,000 on it. There are 2 of these mounts going for 45 on the bay just now but both have over 120,000 miles on them. I've got in touch with sales hoping to get a good price.
    Also i feel a knock when pulling away at start biting point when executed quickly, i need to bring it up really slow for it not to knock so hopefully replacing mount will sort this out also.
    Will update on any improvement after replacement
     
  14. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    I have tried to disassemble this rod:

    70260fdb7b35b61639b36f99a387e6c6.md.
    1645b7df9e1737992ff3460866db0ac1.md.
    aaeb4c608826992898197180635112c2.md.
    63043f04ed79240c558fc30d9b3a7ddb.md.
    4fc072d467e3fa48b0db2a16f7124a04.md.
    7b39b34411328353656c1a25ab0744ad.md.

    Quite a difficult job. The thing is - this bushing is not press-able in and out easily.
    It just glued/molded during manufacturing.

    So if you are planning to buy TEDGUM bushing, be aware, that you have to somehow clean old bushing.
     
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  15. Bounder Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    422
    200
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  16. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    As i said in previous post, yes, im planning to make it from polyurethane.
    Thank you for your URL, in local store i can buy 1kg polyurethane for about ~20pounds, yours seems a bit cheaper :Smile:
     
    MattBeardless likes this.
  17. csak1981 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Christian Glasgow
    8
    1
    Just be careful as i think this part needs to be exactly tensile in both pull directions as the original from factory new. I have mild judder in reverse and slightly less in first gear pulling away. I jacked car up and found the inside of the rubber had became slack from the centre metal fixing section. I decided to jam a piece of garden hose split to its thinnest to fill the slack but could only manage to get a piece into the front whilst still attached to car. I jacked car back down and tried reverse and the judder was ten times worse. I reckon i would of had to of been able to match what i had jammed into the front into the back also and in doing so balancing the tension. Couldn't be bothered jacking car back up so just reached under and pulled it back out and it went back to previous with the slight judder. I'm just going to purchase a brand new mount as buying used i won't know how worn it is or if it's a good one how many miles until it starts to wear.
     
  18. MattBeardless Service Team H-Tune Staff

    It may be worth contacting somebody like Energy Suspension or Polybush regarding this, I'm sure they'd be happy to make one for you-and from there, we could supply it.
     
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  19. julekasMobilek Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    168
    52
    I think, that you can buy used one, and just visually inspect it.
    If there is a slight crack - the tensile strength of this thing will be compromised one way or another.
    As of driving with this used one but good condition, after 1k kms its still running great.

    The good thing of the polyurethane is that you can fill that thing up, and then, try to cut it out like an original.
    I have tried to contact local shops, which they supply poly bushings for BMWs older Civics etc..., and they refused to do polyurethane bushing for this one.
     
  20. csak1981 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Christian Glasgow
    8
    1
    Well I've replaced the mount today and unfortunately reverse judder still there and also clunk when pulling away. However when turning the key when engine kicks in its alot smoother and also seems to feel about 20 percent smoother when actually driving certain gear changes definitely feel smoother. My old mount didn't have any rips in the rubber but i figured the rubber could of went softer or harder over the years. So i just fitted the new one. I'm getting clutch and flywheel done in the next few months so hopefully that'll fix the judder and clunk.