Engine & Gearbox no heat

Discussion in '8th Generation (2008-2015) [Acura TSX]' started by Mark11, Sunday 28th Apr, 2019.

  1. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    182
    107
    i will give another go when the engine is hot . The fans have not come in yet as the outside temperature is cool
     
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  2. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    182
    107
    started car up from cold, cap on. undone bleed nipple (finally)
    trickling out, probably one bubble
    revved the car squirting out high
    Is there a method to bleeding this, does the car need to be hot? cold? cap on? cap off?
    any help appreciated
     
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  3. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    132
    43
    start up your car,
    set HVAC temperature control to HIGH (HI) - that setting will open coolant valve, to start circulating coolant through heater core
    when open expansion tank cap and refilling coolant to the top.
    then open/unscrew bleeder valve to escape all air, and wait till coolant comes out. (if needed - refill expansion tank).
    and that's it.

    all excess coolant which is in expansion tank eventually will leak out trough the hose attached to expansion tank.
     
  4. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    182
    107
    still not much heat after bleeding :no:
     
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  5. coops Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Herts
    58
    27
    hi I have the exact same problem and I found that I get proper heat by manually adjusting the cable on the bulkhead as mentioned in this thread. I am hoping to follow the instructions to fix the root cause of the problem once I know how to remove the applicable trim.
     
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  6. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    182
    107
    i checked all the cables and both arms move
     
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  7. coops Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Herts
    58
    27
    I'm not sure what both arms move means, sorry.

    If you look under the bonnet you'll see a cable coming out of the bulkhead roughly in the centre (so aligned with where your heating controls are in centre of front of the interior). You may be able to manually move the lever which the cable is attached to so it points to 3 o'clock position like this

    IMG_0332_zpshmugtome.


    and then check if you get hot air once the car is fully warm. If so it indicates the problem is as described on the linked thread and you could then look at the other end of the cable inside the car to check if it is not attached to the actuator.

    Here's the panel you can remove from below the steering wheel which is just a case of gently pulling off the point where it hooks on at the back of the panel (nearest to the pedals).
    If you carefully unplug the plug from its socket in the panel, you can fully detach the panel and move it out of the way.

    20190611_101427.

    Then you can shine a torch into the area behind the heating controls and see the offending cable which in my case had indeed become detached from the white plastic barb which is supposed to actuate the cable. You may need to open this image and zoom in to see it clearly but in real life it is pretty obvious.

    20190611_101530.
     
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  8. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    182
    107
    yes that what i mean by arms lol (lever) both move when turn from hot to cold but the one under the dash does make a creaking sound when moving
     
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