Engine & Gearbox no heat

Discussion in '8th Generation (2008-2015) [Acura TSX]' started by Mark11, Sunday 28th Apr, 2019.

  1. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    I've been reading old threads on here about not getting any hot air in the cabin. Only getting luke warm air.

    I've started the car up. i can see the butterfly in the bulk head with the blue cable. if i turn the heater up or down that cable doesnt moved. (don't know if i need the car to get red hot). I don't actually know if this cable should move.

    look in drivers side footwell. i can see the white arm moving when i turn heater up and down but i can't see if it is attached to anything, really hard to see.

    any ideas 2.2 I-DTEC 2009
     
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  2. Matt at H-Tune Service Team H-Tune Staff

    Hey Mark,
    This may sound odd, but are you sure your pollen filter is clear and that your heater resistor is okay?

    In some cases, poor cabin air temperature can be down to poor airflow through the heater matrix.
     
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  3. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    No not checked those yet, i will do

    my air vent is cold. middle are luke warm and the passenger is hot.

    its using a bit of water but only going down a bit in the header tank.

    Im thinking maybe an air lock
     
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  4. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    131
    43
    So maybe the thermostat has fault in stuck open position. Car will never be able to get to the working temperature?
     
  5. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    the temperature gauge on the goes to half then just stays there
     
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  6. Smokingman Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom John LN5
    665
    389
    2
    @Mark11
    As does mine and it never seems very hot.
     
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  7. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    mine no where as hot as my 7th Generation cdti
     
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  8. honda_saj Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom saj east london
    1,725
    839
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    Hi Mark,
    Couple of things could be at fault here, the air mixer, relay, blower resistor, my engine temperature is always around half and i get very hot air.
     
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    Mark11 likes this.
  9. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    my temperature always sits about half it blows air out fine just not hot i can see the cable moving under the dash and under the bonnet when turn from hot to cold . where is the relay u on about ?
     

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  10. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    any one know where abouts the thermostat is going to change that see if that helps cheers.
    - - - Updated - - -
    this is my gauge after about 2 mile driving
    - - - Updated - - -
     

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  11. FUGMASTER Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England ALAN HASLEMERE
    105
    24
    I'd be interested to hear if you resolve this MarkII, as I never feel my Accord's heater is working as it should; takes ages to get warm??
     
  12. i-DSI Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Belgium Aalst
    1,460
    620
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    This is a very normal position. This should be approx. 90°C.
    - - - Updated - - -
    How long is an age in your car :Wink: ? If it's very cold, the I-DTEC uses 'inverted AC' to heat up the cab faster (if front window defogging is OFF). Normal ambient temps: takes indeed longer in a modern diesel to get hot air in the cab. Diesel warm up slow.
     
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  13. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    131
    43
    just for the information, it is false thinking, that you can trust engine temperature gauge on the dash :Smile: it goes to the "middle" (although all honda "middle" is about 40% of the scale :Grin:) in about ~45 degrees.. i have tested it in lithuania winter.. from 45 to 78C the needle stays in the middle of temperature gauge. In addition to this, needle starts to move when coolant reaches about ~30C
     
  14. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    feedback from today.
    Found a leak on bottom of radiator. Replaced the radiator, whilst i was doing it, replaced the thermostat. (thermostat is 78oC which i took out)
    Flushed the system, took side hoses off side of head - all free.
    Put back together - drove a few miles - no difference - bearing in mind it probably needs to settle in. Still taking a bit of Honda Coolant (tried undoing bleed nipple on side nipple but i didnt want to force it as if that strips im in the shit)- ran out now not open till Tuesday, guessing it'll take some to settle in.
    Bit of result coming home. Passenger side two air vents red hot (middle and end) drivers side luke warm - dual not on
    Wondering if got a bit of an air lock still or is the dual not working - anyone know if there is a relay or a setting for this.,
    I have done the heater reset where you hold the off button and heated window 5 times and it goes through a cycle -all fine
    apart from the dual/air lock I'm thinking water pump.
    running out of ideas?
    But definetley an improvement to what it was - COLD lol
     

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  15. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    131
    43
    did you set temperature to high when doing coolant stuff?
     
  16. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    when i had the engine running i had the expansion tank cap off and the heaters on hot to try and bleed it, if thats what you mean. Just can't undo the bleed nipple on the side of the head so thought id try this way,
     
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  17. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    131
    43
    I also did a coolant change, so the main thing is to set inside temperature to "high", it opens water valve in heater core, so that coolant can be fully flushed out, and after that - completely refilled. Also bleed valve near the turbo is crucial for bleeding the system.
     
  18. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    I've tried undoing the bleed nipple, i darent go anymore, i didnt want it to shear or snap - i will try again
     
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  19. Mark11 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark chesterfield
    179
    107
    Done the coolant change. can't undo the bleed screw yet.
    lately I've heard the box under the footwell creaking when moving from hot to cold. is there only one cable on this (i can see one coming in from the engine bay)
    Heater is a bit better, drivers side warm, passenger side is hotter.
    When revving the car the passenger side heater gets really hot - drivers side no difference
    running out of ideas apart from the water pump
    Cheers
     
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  20. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    131
    43
    please, stop, do not damage your car! there is obviously an air pocket in the system. if you continue driving you will over heat your engine.
    When there is an air in the system water pump cannot circulate coolant properly, so coolant does not cool engine evenly, there a hot and cold spots which causes warped cylinder head.

    you must open bleeder, if you afraid to shred it, you can somehow install custom valve that air can escape, other