Engine & Gearbox hesitation issues (again) on my H2B swap HELP.....

Discussion in 'Honda F/H-Series' started by hoppi05, Saturday 27th Jun, 2015.

  1. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    Hesitation (still) under loud on my H2B conversion???HELP….

     

    Ok so as a lot of folk may know this has been going on for a few weeks as I only get Saturday to work on the car and I still have not resolved the issue(s)….  

     

    So the issue, the car feels like it has a parachute attached to the rear when accelerating be it hard acceleration or soft, the revs pick up slowly the engine noise increase but the car goes nowhere its like it is in mud???

     

    The swap was JDM B16 to JDM H22 using B16 engine harness so nothing should have changed i.e. broken cables etc as the Sol run fine before the swap…

     

    When the auto tech came out he read the ignition timing and it was showing out of the 15 degrees +-2 thresholds, the only time we could get it correct was sat on tick over and it went under 15? this was with the timing advanced as far as the dizzy would move?

     

    THEN

     

    When we drove the car with the computer attached the timing was retarding back to 0 or even a minus??

    So checks performed so far:

     

    Faults found – 

    o We had 2 of the injector plugs crossed 1 & 2, this is now corrected and stopped the misfires

    o Spark plugs were sooty but it has been running like shit so that was kind of expected, they have been cleaned up

     

    Items checked –

    Checked the timing belt today and it is timed correctly TDC etc so that rules that part out

    • Checked the TPS that reads 0.48 closed and 4.48 WOT so nothing wrong there.

    • Checked the MAP by swapping with others and no difference + the MAP on was from my Sol when it was running the B16 without issue. 

    • Checked the injectors and they are all ticking as they should, we do have a resister box in place so I need to double check the wiring on that. 

    • Changed the Dizzy

    • Changed the ECU 

    • No CEL’s are been presented to the ECU 

    • It’s a new fuel filter

    • Removed the Tomei adjustable fuel pressure regulator and replaced with standard and no change

    • Checked vacuum hoses

    • IAVC swapped no difference

    • FITV checked but bypassed anyway

    EGR deleted

    • Coolant bleed too many times to remember

    • New thermostat 

    • B16 KNOCK Sensor installed as we smashed the original whilst preparing the engine

    • Earths checked swapped added etc

    • Fuel pump worked fine on the B16 and has not been touched 

    • New gaskets etc on everything when built 

    • New O2

     

    Checks to do (can anyone add to these)?


    Check Knock sensor – need to know how, can the car run with this disconnected? 


    Remove injectors and get those checked or if I can check them? Does anyone know how? 


    Check resister box wiring and check it is functioning – is there a good how to for checking if it’s working? 


    Reset the idle as it’s out with this new ECU. 


    The Dizzy is not timed up correctly due to been a new one and this looks to be a pain to do as there are no timing marks on a H2B conversion does anyone know how to do the ignition timing? Can it be done live whilst plugged into the computer like the auto tech was looking at?

     

    Guys we now need help what the fook else can be checked to try and resolve this??? Any helps tips how to guides etc???
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Saturday 27th Jun, 2015
  2. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    i think the vac lines are messed up could anyone help clarify how to connect based on the below please:

    20150628_195653_zpsufqhffv5.

     

    there are some items missing that's because they did not come with the engine if they are missing and required can you let me know which ones please.
     
  3. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    from what i can see my b16 EVAP does not have the hose 3 connection its only got the two connections one to the throttle body and the other which goes off back under the car i assume to the tank, so 3 leads to purge control valve and that goes into 20 to the connector on the top of the throttle body one of the two facing the wind screen. based on me not having that should i block it off? or do i need that part?

     

    i am also missing CVC which is line 24 coming from the righthand side two connectors next to the cruise control line again should i block this or do i need that part?

     

    and again i am missing the intake control solenoid line 8 as above do i need this part or can i block it off? 
     
  4. Law Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Im not familiar with H2B swaps, but why arent there any timing marks? Are they not on the pulley like all other Hondas? I can't see why you'd loose them??


    Even with the timing out, generally it will stil run, all be it a bit rough,but not as you describe.
     
  5. rooneyrocket Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    H22 ignition timing marks be on the flywheel
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Monday 29th Jun, 2015
  6. Law Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I guess there is no window on the B box then?
     
  7. rooneyrocket Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    No, as you do the ignition timing on a b series at the crank pulley
     
  8. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    yeah the two are polar opposites for timing which is a pain or is going to be a pain 
     
  9. rooneyrocket Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    But the h22 has the ignition timing hole on the block not the gearbox. Which flywheel are you using b or h series. H will have the timing marks the b series won't
     
  10. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    B series 98 ITR so no marks i am trying to get another flywheel so i can mark up the timing mark count the teeth and then mark my own wheel based on that so if anyone has a ITR flywheel i can borrow and return that would be wicked... 
     
  11. Law Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I still doubt that tiMing will be the issue. But,as proccess of elimimation, wind the dizzy fully one way and go for a drive. Then move it to the middle and go for a drive. Then fully the other way. That way, you will only ever be a couple of degrees out on one of the settings and the car would drive well enough.
     
  12. civtegra Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I had hesitation in my z6 charged swap, I thought it was timing related, turned out to be fuel (over fueling and shit map) mine would drive like the handbrake was on over 4300rpm and splutter like mad at partial throttle at that same RPM. swapped ECU with a different map and its 100% better, issue is as good as gone!
     
  13. hoppi05 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    811
    cheers lads hoping to try this in the next hour its just started to piss it down after been 30+C all week lol 
     
  14. rooneyrocket Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Did you ever get to the bottom of this.