Engine & Gearbox Fuel pressure relief valve

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by boyse7en, Saturday 12th Jan, 2019.

  1. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    It looks like the fuel pressure relief valve on my diesel Accord is faulty - the car struggles to start when hot. I tested the valve and fuel flows through it as soon as you crank the engine, which doesn't seem right.

    So trying to source a replacement.
    Honda only sells the valve as part of the fuel rail (very expensive), and all the valves on eBay and car part suppliers are for the later (2009-onwards) models. Anyone know if they are compatible? Or know a source for the 2007-compatible version (Part number 1110010018)
  2. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Well done for properly diagnosing this common fault. As you've found, Honda do not recognise this part (or the rail pressure sensor) as an individual item, which is annoying. However these parts are made by Bosch and can be obtained from any Bosch Service Centre.

    I cannot comment on the compatibility of different era parts. But Bosch will know, I've found them to be brilliant when needing injection parts.

    Cheap, non-Bosch valves are widespread on eBay, but I would avoid them.
    DrSam, SpeedyGee and Nighthawk like this.
  3. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    I'm not getting much further on this. Bosch don't list a part number at all for this model so say they can't help me.
    So does anyone know if a 1110010015 will fit a 2007 model? or what the correct part number might be for the the 2007 model (so far I had assumed it to be 1110010018, but that isn't certain)
    The numbers stamped on mine are 07-06-28 006 1018 087
  4. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    If it physically fits then it will be okay, as all I-CTDI engines run at 1600bar. I'm disappointed with your response from Bosch and suggest you maybe contact a different stockist

    I wonder if yours doesn't show a recognisable Bosch number because someone already fitted a cheap aftermarket part that's now failed?

    This large thread with many posts on another Honda forum lists the Bosch part number you want, recommended suppliers plus loads of other info (some bloke there has nicked my avatar, but he's shit hot on Honda injection problems!)... https://www.civinfo.com/forum/how-g...er-pressure-relief-valve-2006-2-2-i-ctdi.html
  5. DrSam Club Moderator Club Staff

    United Kingdom Sam Birmingham
    Oh no, lives in the same area as you as well :shock: lol
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  6. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    Thanks for the link. That quite a long thread so I'll make my way through it :Smile:

    For short term use I've bought a cheap one off eBay to get me mobile again. Hopefully it will fit OK as it says it fits Civic, later Accord, CR-V etc and I can't imagine that Honda use multiple different spec valves on what was basically the same engine.
    I can then try to track down a Bosch centre that seems to know what I'm talking about. At least I'll be able to take the part with me to show them.

    I've got no idea if the part I've got is original. The Bosch guy never got a part number from me, he just looked on his service parts list and said that the Fuel pressure relief valve for Honda Accords prior to 2008 isn't listed at all, and that was the end of it as he had no idea if the one on the later engine would be correct.
    He gave me this link Vehicle Info - bosch.com which shows parts listed for my model. Nothing on there looks like the right bit.
  7. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Probably a good plan. Like I said, they all run at the same maximum pressure, so if it fits then it'll work.

    Please let us know how you get on.
  8. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    Will do. I hate threads that never get a conclusion. Even worse are the ones that go "Thanks for the help, I've fixed it now" without saying what they did!
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  9. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    New part not arrived yet, but I thought I'd take advantage of the daylight this morning to remove the old one.

    Initial progress was swift. 10mm socket required to remove the four nuts securing the engine cover and I managed to not drop any of them!
    Access to the Pressure Relief Valve is easy but there isn't enough room to get a socket on it, so I used a 17mm ring spanner with a 3ft length of pipe to provide more leverage. The Valve actually undid relatively easy – no "crack" of thread lock – leading me to suspect it may not be the original fitment.

    A 17mm open-ended spanner made short work of undoing it, but there isn't enough clearance to get it out of the fuel rail as it hits the pulley to the left of it (see pic), so next job seems to be removing the auxiliary belt and undoing the pulley to shift it out of the way. Thus a 10 minute job becomes much more tricky...

    Attached Files:

  10. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Never heard of that! How about removing the two bolts that secure the fuel rail and seeing if the pipes allow it to move just enough to extract the valve?
  11. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    Typical that mine is different! :Smile:

    I did wonder about moving the rail a fraction but I was worried that disturbing the pipes might break a seal and cause a leak.
    I'll have a look tonight...
  12. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    If you just needed a couple of mm you might be okay?

    Maybe yours is different because the valve is maybe non-standard and a tad longer?
  13. boyse7en Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin Barnstaple
    Job done and seems to have cured the problem.

    It took me about 45mins to do (in the dark) but this was partly due to some interference issues that you may be lucky enough to avoid. Without those issues it would take about 20 mins.

    In case anyone else needs to do this job, here are a few notes to help you.

    No one seems to list a part number for the valve for the series VII Accord. Later series VIII models are listed as using Bosch 1110010015 valves, but my one was stamped with 1018, which I translated as Bosh part number 1110010018. Some sellers show the 015 and 018 valves as being interchangeable so I took a punt and got a 015 valve as needed to get the car going.

    Remove the engine cover. Four 10mm nuts and penny washers. Needs a 10mm socket and they are easy to lose into the bowels of the engine if you drop one :Smile:

    The Valve is then accessible. Undo using a 17mm open-ended spanner with a sturdy tube over it to give more leverage. Some people report that they are extremely tight, but mine wasn't too bad and undid reasonably easily.

    Remove the valve. This is where i ran into a problem as the valve hit the pump housing to the left of it. I removed the nuts holding the fuel rail (bolt 1 and matching one at the other end of the rail, 12mm ring spanner) and this gave a few mm of movement, just enough to scrape the valve out of the fuel rail completely.

    Fit the new valve. Mine was a cheap eBay knock-off, and this may be why I had a problem getting it in. It wouldn't slide in past the pump however much I levered the fuel rail. I had to remove Bolt 2 (12mm socket), which then allows the pump to pivot away slightly and the new valve went in easy.
    Bolt 2 can then be refitted - you need a screwdriver to lever the pump back into position while you locate the bolt.

    The reason for it being difficult to get the new valve in then became apparent - its 18mm (rather than 17mm) – but the thread is the same and went in smoothly. I then refitted the fuel rail nuts before I fully tightened the valve. As I couldn't get a torque wrench on the nut I just did it as tight as I could with an 18mm ring spanner.

    Refit cover and start engine. I thought it might need cranking to get rid of air in the fuel lines but it actually started straight away

    Ran the car until it was up to temperature and then switched off and left it 30 minutes before trying it again and it started up straight away, no sign of the lengthy cranking needed before.

    Hope this helps anyone else with the issue.

    Last edited by a moderator: Wednesday 16th Jan, 2019
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  14. SpeedyGee Club Manager Club Staff

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Thanks for the detailed feedback @boyse7en :Thumbup:

    The info maybe useful to other members.