Daily Driver FR-V

1st Generation (2004-2011) vehicle added by Rhodrich, Saturday 12th Jan, 2019

  1. Rhodrich Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rhodri Thames Ditton
    18
    17
    2
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  2. Rhodrich Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rhodri Thames Ditton
    18
    17
    2
    Service log so far:

    MileageDateService ItemBrandNotes
    515461-Jan-2019N/AN/ACar Purchased
    5160513-Jan-2019Spark plugsNGK Laser Iridium IZFR6K-11S
    5160513-Jan-2019Air filterMann C2240
    5160513-Jan-2019Cabin filterBorg and Beck BFC1022
     
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  3. Rhodrich Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rhodri Thames Ditton
    18
    17
    2
    More work done:

    MileageDateComponentBrandNotes
    5162616-Jan-19Windscreen WipersBosch AeroTwin
    5165018-Jan-19Oil ChangeUnipart 0w20
    5165018-Jan-19Oil filter changeHonda
    5165018-Jan-19Clutch fluid changePagid DOT 4
    5165019-Jan-19Brake fluid changeTRW DOT 4
    5165019-Jan-19Coolant changeHonda type 2

    Fuel filter now purchased, along with some Honda MTF-3. Not looking forward to doing either of these jobs....
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Club Manager Club Staff

    England Speedy Birmingham
    17,188
    7,573
    5
    I like this little Service Log idea, @Rhodrich :Thumbup:
     
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  5. Rhodrich Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rhodri Thames Ditton
    18
    17
    2
    MileageDateService ItemBrandNotes
    5174626-Jan-2016Fuel Filter ChangeHonda

    Not a pleasant job at all! There are a few 'gotchas' that got me when doing it.

    That said, the rear seat doesn't need removing. Just undo the 4 bolts on the floor (once you've removed the plastic covers)
    IMG_20190126_130754465.

    Then lift up the seat base, and hold it in place with the centre seatbelt:

    IMG_20190126_130856007_HDR.

    Remove the cover, via the 4 screws, remove the electrical connector.

    BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE FUEL LINE, IT'S VITAL THAT YOU RELIEVE THE PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM. Guess what I didn't do. I was expecting a spurt, but hadn't realised that the whole tank was under positive pressure, so the fuel just dribbled out of the tank connector, and didn't stop. Removing the fuel filler cap solved the issue.

    IMG_20190126_131322487.
    Undo the ring holding everything in place (once you've cleaned everything - you down't want all that dirt getting in the tank.) There's a special tool for this, but a hammer and chisel works just as well. The kit comes with a new one. The you can lift the whole unit out of the tank, being careful of the float, which is on the right hand side:

    IMG_20190126_133843219.

    Then it's just a case of replacing all the bits with new parts from the kit. All quite self explanatory. Just a case of pulling back tabs and unclipping, then clipping in the new parts. There are also a number of seals in the kit that need replacing too.

    IMG_20190126_134127271.

    Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Getting the whole thing back in without the gasket getting trapped isn't easy, and starting off the clamping ring is tricky too. All a bit fiddly. I used a hammer and chisel again to tighten it up.

    Start the engine before you've put the cover and seat back in place, to ensure everything works with no leaks. Then have a cup of tea, and enjoy the fact that it won't need doing again for another 10 years.....
     
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  6. Nighthawk Club Manager Club Staff

    @Rhodrich - Excellent work. Any chance you could put that into a DIY guide? I don't believe we have any how to's for the FR-V, and kept in a thread, its a resource which risks being lost amongst other posts

    https://h-tune.co.uk/club/guides/
     
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  7. SpeedyGee Club Manager Club Staff

    England Speedy Birmingham
    17,188
    7,573
    5
    Well done @Rhodrich, top job.

    I echo :whathesaid:, please do create a Guide, even if it's just a copy and paste of the above post, it will certainly help someone :Thumbup:
     
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  8. Rhodrich Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rhodri Thames Ditton
    18
    17
    2
    MileageDateService ItemBrandNotes
    5202316-Feb-2019Gearbox Oil ChangeHonda MTF-3

    Quite an easy job, but you need an oil suction gun to do it (which I didn't have). Bit annoying really, as gearbox oil bottles always used to have tubes attached to them.

    Here's what you need:
    IMG_20190216_153720067.

    Jack up car, and remove front nearside wheel for easy access. Then looking down the driveshaft towards the gearbox, you can see the two bolts you're going to need to undo.
    IMG_20190216_152138772.

    Top 17mm one is the filler, and bottom 3/8" square drive one is the drain plug. Remove the top one first, then the bottom one, making sure you've got an oil pan below to catch the oil. Here they are removed:
    IMG_20190216_153147189.

    Then replace the bottom one (using a new washer if possible), and fill with about 1.75 litres of MTF-3 using your oil suction gun. Use your jack to try and make sure the car is level when you're doing this:
    IMG_20190216_154110615.

    When it starts to spill out of the top hole, you're done. Replace the top nut (using a new washer if possible), then replace the road wheel. Job done!

    Will create a guide too.

    Incidentally, you can see how little we drive! Less than 300 miles in a month on average. It'll be a while before most of these jobs need doing again!
     
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