Engine & Gearbox Engine swaps

Discussion in 'Honda F/H-Series' started by Gerry, Monday 11th Aug, 2014.

  1. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hey folks.


    I'm sorta bringing up a B18c4 vs B18c debate again.


    what I'm trying to find out is: for a high comp build what one is best to go for.


    Before people start screaming use the search i have done so on this and other forums. The closest i got to was on another forum where a guy had a B18c4 and with a build cost of £2300 managed 203bhp using OEM parts from ITR etc..


    Now that £2300 could be spent on a full JDM B18C swap with the 197bhp. Going this route would save a bit of engine building.


    but if building a more aggressive head using aftermarket manufactures would it be more efficient to use the the B18c4 with its lower cost to pick up. Or buy a b18c and install the aftermarket head components further down the line when money permits.


    Would the b18c always produce better results or would it cine to a point where it would start to balance out?
     
  2. Hayes Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Just go B18C, you'll save yourself an awful lot of ballache 
     
  3. Afy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    please have a good read of one of my recent builds



    The h22a7 swap 220hp

    2.2 displacement.

    More tourque than a stock k20 

    very cheap.

    Mounts 240 (inovative)

    Engine/box/ linkage/ 600 - possible free if you break an ATR

    Prelude gen4 dizzy 30
    socketed ECU 80-110

    driveshafts 250

    Im loving it.
     
  4. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I was thinking that's a big positive factor about the b18c.


    I actually read into a H2b swap not that long ago. But to get into the Del Sol you need to hammer,cut,weld etc part of the bay to get it in. Also need to remove power steering (not sure how id feel about that). There also the factor that it sits lower and at a tilted angle I've trad about.


    There's a big build thread on the delsoluk site and in sure i read the owner had to get coilovers with specific spring rates at front to account for extra weight.


    I think its the concern of doing something that can be undone in regards to messing around with the bay. I read that once you put a h22 in you can't really put anything else in again
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Monday 11th Aug, 2014
  5. Hayes Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Not forgetting other options such as D16 turbo.
     
  6. Shuthan Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    This.
     
  7. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I've kinda decided to go down the B18 route wasn't too sure if the c or c4 was the way to go in regards to upgrading parts in the head at some point.
     
  8. Ryan. Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    863
    C4. Then boost. Done.
     
  9. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Don't really have the know how/mechanical capabilities to deal with trouble shooting if anything goes wrong with a turbo set up.


    Doesn't doing a turbo set up right cost a fair bit?
     
  10. EGH_22 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Im with afy on this mate but a h2b instead only as im using this setup. Had a full H swap too. The hitting and that aint as big deal as u think though and with the H engine you have power and torque there


    Powersteering aint a problem either use the mr2 setup with the electric setup. And you can just move it and make the a new hose up.


    The weight aint much of a problem either im running lowered springs atm and havent had any problems yet, with my h2b it sits just like a b series too giving me enough clearance on the manifold without scrapping.


    Only thing i will say though is get bonnet raisers and cut the skeleton for the rocker cover as it touches when closed.
     
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  11. ProjectUKDM Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    If you go down the boost route you might as well just use the B16 in your Sol, I would do that or the H2B swap
     
  12. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    What h2b kit is it your using out of curiosity if it sits like the b engine? Maybe its the kits that determine the angle the block sits at
     
  13. EGH_22 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Im using the qsd kit mate. All it comes with is an adapter plate which bolts to the engine and then bolt the gearbox on a little bit of work is needed for the half shaft to bolt on not alot though.


    U get a new engine side mount which requires the ITR mount.


    For the power you get out of a b series the h series has it standard mate.
     
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  14. Afy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    I'd say full ATR setup including box.


    It's a LSD box.


    You can always put a shorter final drive in it.


    Less components to go wrong.


    Engine sits properly flat... With no lilt.


    My bonnet shuts OEM with no mods to it.


    We shall get Powersteering working and post a how to up.


    It spins up for fun. Good driving and you can put the power down well.
     
  15. Law Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    You would have change out of that and see 350bhp from a built D

    You could also spend a fraction more and run a totally stock B18 anywhere from 350-450
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Monday 11th Aug, 2014
  16. Gerry Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Isn't the reasoning behind the h2b is that the h box is t up to much in comparison to the b box. Not that I've had any experience with them, just what I've came across on forums.
     
  17. Afy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    I always thought it was the gearing and FD that was the best points of the swap.