Engine & Gearbox Clutch or something worse?

Discussion in '3rd Generation (2006-2012)' started by agadza, Tuesday 25th Dec, 2018.

  1. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    I just returned from a long journey in which the gears would not engage easily from 1st and 2nd. If I came into neutral and then tried to get into 1 or 2, it would not engage. Double-clutching seemed to help. Also, when I got into 2nd, the pedal would not come up as easily as usual. The rest of the gears seem to work well and I managed a motorway drive home.
    The AA guy who turned up said he thought I needed a new clutch.
    I have seen a number of threads on here, but with nothing conclusive, so I am still as confused as I was in the beginning.
    My questions:
    Was the AA guy right?
    If so, is only the clutch or am I looking at a DMF change too?
    Am I better going to an indie or going to the dealership? I really would not like to spend thousands on a ten year old car!
    Please advise.
     
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  2. SpeedyGee Club Manager Club Staff

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    You've got a 1.4 iDSi right? They don't have dual mass flywheels as far as I know.

    I would say the root cause needs looking into a little further by a garage. The issue could be master cylinder/slave cylinder related, could be clutch, could possibly be gearbox itself.

    A good indie will easily be able to tackle this job. If you don't know any try looking local for "Good Garage Scheme" garages.
     
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  3. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    Thanks,Speedy
    I actually have a 2.2 CDTi, 3rd generation CR-V.
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Club Manager Club Staff

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Oh sorry, I was going off your Garage entry in which you are only showing an '03 Jazz as being your only current car.
     
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  5. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    My bad, should reload my profile and add the CR-V.

    Does this mean I have the DMF, then?
     
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  6. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Yes, that would have a DMF. But a hydraulic problem needs to be ruled out before plunging in and replacing the clutch... even then, the DMF may not need replacing (it can easily be checked during a clutch change and replaced if the free play is outside the service limit of 6-36mm.
     
  7. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    Thanks, Zebster!
    Are these hydraulic problems complex to diagnose? I would like to avoid a dealership cost if I could, though I have the feeling the reason so many other members have had unresolved issues in this area is inaccurate diagnosis to begin with.
     
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  8. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    As @SpeedyGee suggested, there's nothing on the hydraulic system that couldn't be checked out and repaired by any decent garage. It's only if the diagnosis suggests clutch replacement that someone more experienced with installing these self-adjusting clutches needs to be tasked.
     
  9. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    Thanks, mate.
    Will begin the process and feedback.
    Best wishes of the season to you.
     
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  10. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    And to you.

    Good luck for a cheap fix!
     
  11. Beefy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    Most motorists don’t have a clue what a worn clutch feels like until one day it “just won’t go!” Mileage covered plays a part but the drivers left foot also. Towing also wears them out pre-maturely. I’ve not seen a hydraulic problem on a Honda clutch that age. Without feeling the cars clutch pedal and bite point nobody will be able to say. But it’s highly likely you need a new clutch
     
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  12. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    Thanks, Beefy.

    Can I just double check - car is a CR-V 08 plate, 101,100 miles on the clock.
     
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  13. Beefy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    You need a clutch. I almost guarantee it at that mileage. It may not need a flywheel but get it priced up as part of the job so there’s no surprises. If it doesn’t need one then it’s a £300 bonus. Indi will prob say it needs one regardless once stripped (There labour is cheep so many will inflate the parts price normally in order to get more labour) there should be no labour charge for fitting a DMF.
     
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  14. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    Thanks, Beefy.

    Do you have some idea how much I am looking at in terms of cost, both dealership and indie?

    And just out of interest, would I have been better of with a CVT auto in
    the first place?
     
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  15. Beefy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    I’m not up to date with prices. DMF is around £300, clutch £150. Most indi would charge around £250 to fit I would imagine. Dealership has a fixed price around the £650 mark inc cost of the clutch. However add the £300 on top for the DMF.
     
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  16. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    Thanks, Beefy.
    I will see how it goes and feedback.
    Wishing you the best of the season to you!
     
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  17. Nighthawk Club Manager Club Staff

    I would agree with the clutch being at that mileage. On saying that though, the slave cylinder on my CN2 cracked before it needed a clutch, but I know that was more freak something or other than a regular thing.
     
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  18. Nels Club Moderator Club Staff

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  19. Zebster Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    The usual failure mode on I-CTDI clutches is severe slipping, not the problem described here by the OP.

    My 2005 Accord diesel was still on its original clutch at 185k miles when the engine expired. Probably due to a lot of motorway use.
     
  20. agadza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Agadza London
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    Many thanks, Nels. I have sent the link on to the garage. Due to take it in tomorrow morning.
    - - - Updated - - -
    If he doesnt have one, how easy are they to get?
     
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