Engine & Gearbox 2004 accord 2.2 i-Cdti Feeling promblem but not convinced please help

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by A4r0n01, Saturday 11th Aug, 2018.

  1. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    Hi all and firstly thank you for taking the time to stop and read my post and thank you for any help and advise.
    Well I bought a 2004 accord 2.2 I-CDTI about two months ago with suspected sticky EGR vale as the car would be sluggish upto about 2k revs after undoing the four toxs on top of the EGR giving it abit of a shake it would be perfect for about a hour of driving then go back to normal. But now I have a hole new issue so got to the car the other day and it seem to take a while to fire up didn't think anything of it anyway after this point over the next 5-6 times of starting the car it would take even longer to start to the point of it not starting at all.

    I had to work with no other transport to get me there so I though I'd see if she fires up with abit of easy start and surly enough she went straight away. So I think ok atleast I can get back and to from work just till the weekend where I can have a good look at it.

    Over the next couple of days when she was running she was running the best since I've had it no lag on low end revs and pulled strong through the gears.

    Then all of a Sudden the car jumped into limp mode and my the glow plug light flashing so I pull over turn the car off for a mintute then fired the car back up ( still using easy start to get her to fire) the glow plug light goes out and she's out of limp mode. Now at this stage it's making a lot of boost and and I can hear the turbo a lot now spooling and is pulling up the revs very fast I guessing she is over boosting for some reason. So carry on my way home and after about 5 miles she goes back into limp mode so I just get her home as she is.

    When I get home I put the code reader on and reads the code p1065 which is feul filter. So I change the feul filter no not a OEM one just one to get me out the shit. well so I thought anyway after changing the filter I'm still having the same issue with the same code. So I bypassed the heater and filter and put the diesel feed straight to the high pressure pump and it still does the same thing.

    The bit that confuses me is when it's running and not in limp mode she pulled hard and doesn't seem to miss fire or judder or anything.
    Thoughts have been going towards high pressure pump or could it be the over boosting that's making it run lean and she just thinks it's not getting enough feul.

    The boost solenoid does seem to be making a buzzing noise but I don't think that would solve the starting issue or the limp mode

    If there's anyone that has had the same issues or and help please do I just do t want to go spending massive money on things it might not be light high pressure pump £500 new

    Thanks aaron
     
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  2. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Alas, there are a multitude of things that could be all contributing to your woes.
    This is not a comprehensive list and I'm no expert. However, her are my thought, in no particular order:

    1 The I-CTDI engine is very fussy about the fuel filter you use. Many have had issues until they go back to a genuine Honda filter.
    2 The ECU will throw you into limp mode and shut down/reduce the function of various component to protect the engine. Therefore, just because something appears to be not working, doesn't mean it is faulty.
    3 You have not told us the mileage. Glow plugs do need replacing eventually and could also develop faults.
    4 The Bosch fuel injectors do fail and activate limp mode. They can be very, very difficult to remove and it is not uncommon for the retaining bolts to snap off. If you've not done this before get a garage to do it for you.

    Personally, I would recommend taking your CN1 to a dealer or Bosch Service Centre. They should be able to accurately diagnose the fault(s) and recommend the best course of action. This may cost initially, but could save you in the long run in time and replacing components unnecessarily.

    I also have concerns about how the engine has been treated, both in the way it has been driven and it's service history. The EGR system should be dry albeit a little sooty. If it is oily/sludgy then that's not a healthy sign. Removal and cleaning is well worth the effort. Ideally, get a new gasket(s) for when you put it all back together again.

    Are you on the original clutch? Replacement is expensive and requires a special pre-tensioning tool. Very few garages have this and whilst they can fit a new clutch, it will give you problems until it is re-fitted correctly.

    A well maintained I-CTDI engine is magnificent and a pleasure to drive. If it hasn't been cared for, there are many things that can, and do go wrong.
     
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  3. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    Thank for the advise nels but would not bypassing the feul filter completely solve this p1065 code or can they still be funny with that thanks aaron
    - - - Updated - - -
    Also this is the part that's buzzing when I turn the ignition on could this be my issue
     

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  4. Bounder Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    335
    145
    Those IMRC solenoids are quite a common failure.
    If you feel up to the task its worth removing the inlet manifold and cleaning it or getting someone to clean it.
    Lots of those DPF cleaning places will clean stuff up the manifold can get really choked up with soot from the EGR valve, when I cleaned mine the hole was nearly 2/3 blocked, I used a piece of windscreen wiper blade metal stiffener to scrape all the gunk out and washed it with strong degreaser.
    Engine ran a lot stronger and smoother afterwards.
     
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  5. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    Hi all thanks for your advise it looks to me like it may be injectors I going to do a leak off test. See she still won't start off her oWn back but will with abit of easy start. Now when she is running if I unplug each injector one at a time the car will stay running Just a little lumpy and then the other two she would die straight away. Would I be right in thinking that I have two injectors down and is it more than likely to be the ones which it dies off when unplugged.
    And finally if buying injectors (recon) would it be ok to replace the faulty ones or all of then thanks Aaron
     
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  6. Heckler Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    When mine was running rough a couple of years ago, a former member came round and cleaned out the EGR plus the too air sensors (one on the intake box and another on the front of the engine). All 3 were filthy and once cleaned transformed the car back into the one she'd been before.

    To do that costs just a few pounds for some decent cans of cleaning products and a couple of hours of your time.

    I'm not saying that will fix it... but it's a very cheap place to start. My car was exhibiting many of the signs you mentioned. Sluggish to rev, turbo not kicking in until around 2500rpm instead of 1800rpm. Having to keep rev much higher when trying to pull away or it would stall and so forth.
     
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  7. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    Well today I have run a few tests firstly was the HP pump which I just cracked off each HP Line to the injectors and all of the seemed to be getting a good supply of feul. So next I did a leak off test I did run the car not no more than a minute as buy this stage one of the injectors had fill a 500ml pop bottle as the over 3 had a few drops it. So after many head scratching moments I think I can safely say it's a injector. I would also say she has been run on red I've attached the picture of the leak off test results. Any other advise I'm most greatful EG best way to remove injectors and even best to purchase from thanks aaron
     

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  8. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    If you've got a trusted local garage, let them get the injector out. It is not uncommon to break off the retaining bolt and then that's a much bigger problem!
    Alternatively, you could try and get it out yourself, but if it doesn't budge easily, stop.

    Your choice. Depends on your mechanical skills and having the correct tools.
     
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  9. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
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    mate where are you based in Shropshire....
     
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  10. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    I'm in Oswestry Andy
     
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  11. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
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    mate if you looking for a honda dealer either go holdcroft honda or jt hughes shrewsbury , as it has already been said you might want get a trusted garage to change them....
     
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  12. A4r0n01 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Aaron Shropshire
    8
    2
    That's it I could do them myself it's just that risk if anything snaps off then I've got a hole new problem but the injectors do seem to already numbered and marked with what I would say is scrap yard markings. So I think they may have already been changed at some stage so I would like to think they would be relatively easy to get out
     
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  13. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
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    mate if me remember correct there is threads on here from when others have done it.
     
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  14. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    If they've been out before, then you may well be able to do the job yourself. Originals that have been there for years are often very difficult to budge.
    When you do change it, be sure to keep a note of the letter identification on the injector so that this can be updated on the car's system.
    :goodluck:
     
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  15. Bounder Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    335
    145
    Wurth sell a specific injector removal chemical it’s supposed to be very good according to my garage man who has removed a lot of seized injectors, he keeps two cans in stock always.
     
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