Mission - Remove OEM Navigation unit and replace with double DIN headunit, with working HVAC controls. Steps are more or less the same for non navigation models.
- Difficulty Level:
Parts Required -
- 7th Generation Accord
- Manual transmission
- PETROL ENGINE (dash kit will not work with a diesel engine)
- OEM navigation installed to start (removal is mostly the same for non navigation models)
Tools Required -
- Double DIN headunit. Choose yer own poison, (I used a Pioneer AVIC F80DAB) - this guide assumes you use one that comes with satnav
- Dash Kit - I used the Scosche HA1721B, which is the same as the Connects2 CTKPHD01 (in fact I ordered the CTKPHD01, but received the Scosche) - these ARE expensive (about £450), but they come with everything you need. I was lucky and got mine for £250 (still don't know why as it doesn't look used / damaged). Having installed mine and used it, I'm ok paying £250, but dunno if I'd be happy to fork out £450 and still need to supply a headunit....
- Trim clips (these are little clips that go onto the plastic bits that fit into the mounting holes in the dash - dunno how to describe them better, sorry), as the install kit does not have any of the clips. I used the metal clips from the OEM unit, and they seem to work fine
- If you so desire, flush mount USB ports for connection to USB ports in rear of headunit
- Accord ISO Wiring harness
- You SHOULDN'T need a patch lead for steering wheel controls as the dash kit control comes with one which SHOULD work for most head units
IMPORTANT NOTES -
- Trill removal tools (do not try this with a flathead screwdriver, as you WILL damage your dash)
- Philips head screw driver (not too big)
- Size 10 and (I think) size 8 deep sockets
- Something to cut away some plastic trim (scary, I know, but necessary) - I used a CEL IonPRO 10.8V Li-Ion Multi-tool with a cutting blade on it
- Something to cover the inside of the dash while you're cutting plastic trim
So, let's start by assembling the Dash Kit and head unit. This is quite easy, and can be done using the install instructions that come with the install kit.
- When you connect the dash kit, you will no longer get a display on the information panel in the center of the dash (temp, clock etc.), so don't think something's broken when this happens. You;ll have to rely on the clock on your headunit
- The Premier sound System in the CL9 (and probably other models) comes with an amp, which takes 4 channel output and send it to 8 channels for the speakers dotted around the car. This amp is surprisingly powerful. Removing can be complicated with the way it splits the signals, so it;s best to leave it in place. Just make sure you compensate on the headunit for having an amp on hte normal speaker outputs, as this amp does not use low level RCAs for input, but rather gets it's feed from the normal wiring harness that plugs into your headunit.
Depending on the length of cables etc. you can try mounting the dash kit's control unit on the top of the head unit as below. I did this at first, but then in the end found it easier to have this hanging loose behind the head unit. Also, having nothing on top of the head unit will allow for better cooling of the dash kit screen.
You then mount the pocket on the bottom half of the dash kit as below. This also shows how I mounted some USB ports in this part of the trim. These will allow me to connect them to the USB ports in the rear of the Pioneer head unit
Take your ISO wiring harness and cut off the end that connects to the car's wiring harness. Using the wiring diagram of your chosen headunit, you need to then connect the relevant wires on the remaining ISO wiring harness for power, ACC, lights, speakers etc. to the wiring harness that came with the dash kit. The picture below shows what the end result should be like. Sorry you can;t click it to make it bigger. This was taken from an earlier post, and I can onl,y access the thumbnail, and not the full picture
Ok, so now that's done, we can crack on with removing a bunch of trim. This is surprisingly easy and pain free, as long as you do it the right way in the right order with the right tools (oh wait, I suppose most things are like that )
So, first thing, open the ashtray / coin tray cover (you can pull the ashtray out at this stage if you want, I did it later - it just clips in)
Depending on whether you have heated seats or not, the number of panel clips on the gear lever surround are different. However the process for removing this trim is the same. DO NOT try to remove it by inserting a trim removal tool at the 6 or 12 o'clock positions an then pulling up as this part of the trim is VERY thin and will often snap. The trim clips run down the side of the trim, so that's where you should apply pressure (3 clips on each side for non heated seat cars, and 4 for cars with heated seats). So, insert a trim removal tool in the top right location as below
Carefully, slide this around the side like so
At this stage, you can start applying lifting pressure until the first clip releases. Do the same on the other side (insert at top left, carefully slide around to the left side and then lift)
Release all clips and the trim piece will come out easily
If you have heated seats, remove the plugs for them
Now, hold the gear lever gaiter and firmly rotate the gearknob counter clockwise. The gearknob should start twisting off. Keep doing this, while holding and rotating the gar gaitor with the gearknob, until it screws off completely
Removal of this trim reveals 2 screws in front of the ashtray trim. Remove these screws, careful not to drop them (not sure if you actually need to remove these 2 screws.... but may as well, just in case, but rememeber to put them back later )
If you haven't already removed the ashtray, pull this out towards you (it just unclips)
This will reveal 2 screws that were behind the ashtray. Remove these. I found them difficult to access, so I had one hand ready to catch the screws if they dropped, before I unscrewed them.
With these 2 screws removed you can now pull up the cigarette lighter trim. Be careful not to lose the metal clips that are attached to the trim. This photo shows the clip in place
This shows how the clip on the right hand came off when pulling on the trim
Luckily I found the metal clip and was able to replace it (nothing worse than rattling trim coz clips are missing....)
The middle part of this trim does NOT have a metal clip, so don;t spend 15 minutes looking for something you thought you dropped, which wasn't actually there in the first place....
Pull out the cigarette lighter and remove the plugs going into it
To remove the small light that goes into the rear of this trim, simpl rotate it a little and put it out
Ok, now remove these 2 screws
You should now be able to remove the DVD drive used for the OEM navigation. Start by inserting a trim removal tool to loosen the clips. Work your way around until the lips release
You can now pull the DVD drive towards you
Use some pliers to squeeze the backs of these clips so you can remove them from the metal frame on the DVD drive
Keep pulling DVD drive out
And then remove all plugs from rear of DVD drive
Now for the main navigation unit.... You need to remove these 2 nuts, using the size 10 deep socket
Then remove these 2 bolts, using the size 10 socket
Lastly, remove these (I THINK) size 8 buts using a socket - they're right at the back under the main navigation unit
For now, that it for this part of the dash.
Using trim removal tools (I found the wode, thin one worked easier with less damage to dash), lift the air vents out of the dash
This wire hanging down is one of the wires we disconnected from the DVD drive and is the GPS antenna
This is mounted on a metal frame under the dash
Remove the 2 screws holding the GPS antenna mount in place
Flip it over and you'll see 2 small screws (ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR OWN GPS ANTENNA)
Remove these 2 screws and you can lift the GPS antenna off the metal frame (ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR OWN GPS ANTENNA)
It's still being held in place by a cable tie (ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR OWN GPS ANTENNA)
Cut the cable tie on the side of the frame AWAY from the antenna cable (this ensure you don't cut the antenna cable by mistake) (ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR OWN GPS ANTENNA)
Put the 2 screws back into the bottom of the GPS antenna (so they don't get lost) (ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR OWN GPS ANTENNA)
You can now use the metal frame to mount the GPS Antenna for your headunit
If you are not installing a GPS antenna for your headunit, then just put the OEM GPS antenna to the side and store it withthe DVD drive you removed earlier and the main navigation unit you are about to remove
So, put the air vents out of the way like so (no need to disconnect cables etc.)
Now you want to remove these 3 screws at the top of the main navigation unit
And the difficult bit.... On the inside of the dash, pointing slighly up and forward are two screws that you need to remove (they're behind the AC controls on the dash). For me these were VERY tight and difficult to remove, especially at this awkward angle. be very careful you don;t strip the heads of these screws. I was lucky that I had a 'stubby' philips screwdriver that had a head that fit nicely
The AC controls and the main navigation unit come out in one big piece, so carefully start pull it towards you at the bottom
and the top
As it comes out, remove the plugs. Note the 2 green plugs that went into the AC unit - these will go into the dash kit control, box.
There will also be one black plug that went into the main navigation unit, and this will go into the wiring harness that came with the dash kit. Sorry I didn't take a picture of this black plug, but you can see where it plugs into the black plug on the main unit below
And here we have everything removed
Now the painful bit. Depending on the headunit you are installing, you will most likely need to cut some plastic on your dash. I've made some vertical marks in the places I started cutting. You have to make sure you do NOT cut the 2 mounting holes on the end of this plastic strip.
This is after my initial cut
And the bit I removed
At this stage, I used the pre-assembled dash kit and head unit to test fit, and found I had to file away a bit more
The install instructions that came with the dash kit didn;t mention this next step, but I think that might be because they weren't based on a car with OEMnavigation. Anyway, I found I also had to remove this metal plate, which I THINK is only present if you have the OEM navigation. To remove this, I had to remove 2 more screws from behind (same as the 2 screws we removed earlier from behind AC controls). These were even tighter, and took a lot of effort to not strip the screw heads)
Anyway, I finally got the headunit to fit, so before I put any screws back, I connected it up and let the dash kit start it's diagnostic on first run
Sorry for the lack of pictures on this bit, but it's all in the dash kit install instructions. Basically you connect the black plug from the car's wiring harness to the wiring harness that came with the dash kit. You then connect the 2 green plugs that you removed form the AC controls into the dash kit control box (take note of hte plugs here, as there are 2 plugs the same size on the control box. One is for if you have single zone and the other is if you have dual zone - once again, all covered in the dash kit install instructions. You then also connect patch lead for the steering wheel controls from the dash kit control box into the head unit
As I have a DAB capable radio, its time to install the DAB antenna. I installed this on the passenger side of the front windscreen
BE VERY VERY VERY careful when doing this, and it's STRONGLY recommended that you disconnect battery when going ANYWHERE near air bags. To remove the A pillar trim, use a trim removal tool to pop out the airbag warnin label. You can then carefully pull the trim away from the A pillar and slide it out.
Install the DAB antenna and run the cables down the A pillar ensuring that they do not obstruct the airbag at all.
I also took the opportunity to install a microphone for the headunit for hands free calling
So now I can conenct everything up again and install headunit into dash (after one quick test to ensure all works)
And slowly start putting it back together (in reverse of removing the dash)
Until you have this
this is how I connect my phone to my headunit (as well as USB sticks with music / pics / videos on them)
I had a few screws left over after putting everything back, but that's fine as all locations in the dash kit that had locations for screws were properly screwed in.
Really happy with the quality and functionality of the dash kit, and the ease of install (purely to amazing install instructions that came with the dash kit). So far, I haven't had any new creaks / rattles / strange noises that you often get with aftermarket dash kits, so I am very happy.
Only complaint I have is that there's a gap between the top of the dash kit and the air vents, as shown below, but I can live with this. It could be that I just need to remove air vents, remove top three screws holding dash kit in, and try and lift the dash kit up just a touch as I screw thee screws back in,.
Replace OEM Navigation with Aftermarket Double DIN Navigation Headunit