Guide by piyke of DIYAutoWorksNG
- Difficulty Level:
This is the complete and lucid post on the rebuild of the power steering pump on the 7th generation 4cyl Accord. I did this the hard way with no ton press or the like.
A few leaks here and there and a worn (noisy) power steering pump bearing indicated the need for the rebuild. Leaks are gone, engine sounds quieter than I’ve ever heard it, and there’s no loss of power assist since the rebuild! A rebuild where possible is really cost effective!Down to business.
Now, I didn’t have have an impact/strap wrench for this job, neither did I have access to a press. I used two 32mm sockets and a rubber mallet for my press .
- Power steering rebuild kit: Just get the one suited for your car make and model. I used the Edelmann 8934 rebuild kit from PartsMaster purchased on Amazon.com. It contains all the O-rings and seals for the overhaul of the pump minus the pump bearing and cost less than $25
- New PS pump bearing (P/N: 91048-P2A-003)
- Bottle of genuine Honda PS fluid (you won’t use much of it)
- Impact wrench or strap wrench (for removing the pulley locknut)
- Access to a press
- PS pump inlet and outlet line O-rings
- Snap ring remover
- Breaker bar
1. Remove the power steering pump from the vehicle: See previous post: Power Steering Pump Removal & Install on 2003 – 2007 Accord
Power steering pump
19mm Pulley locknut in view
2. Slacken the pulley nut: Took quite a bit doing this since I didn’t have an impact or strap wrench. My method was crude; inserted a breaker bar between the pulley slots to wedge it and then, loosened the nut. I had to bang on the wrench attached to the nut. I don’t recommend this . Once slack leave in place.
3. Remove the pump housing cap:
Change the O-ring on the housing cap. Mine had become brittle.
Bolt for the pump housing cap (held)
Pump housing cap with O-ring attached. (Replace O-ring)
4. Remove the 4 bolts holding the PS pump cover: Set the PS pump on a flat surface and remove the 4 12mm bolts.
4 bolts on the rear pump cover
Once the 4 bolts are off, wiggle and take off the pump cover…
Pump cover taken off. Take note of the hole shown by the red arrow on the pump cover. Its for the Roll Pin and will come handy later…
5. Remove the Roll Pin
Roll Pin being removed with needle-nose pliers
6. Remove the Cam Ring:
Removing the Cam Ring
7. Remove the Power Steering pump Vanes: The 11 vanes are in slots around the pump rotor.
NB: Note the edges of the vanes pointing outwards as they MUST be replaced in the same orientation. If not, the PS pump may not work well. The edges pointing outward are golden in colour.
A PS pump vane being removed.
I took the further step of arranging the pump vanes so that the outward edges faced left as I set them down outside the pump. By this, I kept track of the orientation of the vanes outside the pump.
The vanes with their outward edges facing left
8. Remove the pump Rotor
Pump Rotor being removed
9. Remove the Outer Case
Outer Case highlighted
Outer Case being removed from pump cavity
10. Remove the Side Plate: Tip the pump over and the side plate will ease off.
The PS pump Side Plate
The reverse side of the side plate has an O-ring.
Reverse side of side plate showing the O-ring
11. Remove the Pump Pulley and the 40mm Snap Ring:
Pulley removed. Removal of 40mm snap ring in progress
12. Remove the Drive Shaft-Bearing assembly: A press is recommended, but having no press, I used a 32mm socket and a rubber mallet to hit out the part. Reminds me of The Flintstones!
My crude setup for removing the drive shaft-bearing assembly from the pump
The drive shaft-bearing assembly removed
13. Remove the Pump Seal: This was a bear to remove. I used a flat tip screw driver to pry it off. Take care not to scratch the side walls of the seal recess with the screw driver. A seal puller would be more appropriate.
Removing the pump seal
14: Separate the Drive Shaft from the Ball bearing: Another crude (not recommended) setup for accomplishing this Better done using a press if you have one.
Separating the bearing from the drive shaft. An additional 32mm sockets would have been better that the thinner 22mm deep socket used!
Rebuild of the Power Steering Pump
This is one of those repairs where reverse of disassembly steps doesn’t exactly cut it!
1. Install the new Pump Bearing on the Drive Shaft: Yet another crude setup for this. I placed the old bearing on the 32mm socket, then the new bearing on that, and hammered the drive shaft in using a rubber mallet. The bearing has an indent around the shaft where it seats. Once you get to this point the bearing will move no further. NB: The ideal thing is to only press/hit on the inner rim of the bearing to prevent damage. The use of the old bearing on the new one was to minimise damage to the new one.
Installing a new bearing on the drive shaft
New bearing installed on shaft just shy of its seating area. Install until inner ring of bearing mates with seating area.
2. Install new Pump Seal: Push in by hand, then use an appropriately sized socket to complete install (The grooved side should face inwards). The ratchet end of my 32mm socket came handy.
Installing the pump seal
Ensure the lips of the pump seal go below the bevelled circumference highlighted in the image below. You may need to place the old pump seal on the new seal and tap gently to get below this point.
Pump pulley installed
3. Replace all O-rings in the pump: Coat each O-ring in PS fluid before replacing.
Side plate O-ring
2 O-rings on pump cover
O-ring at base of pump cavity
4. Install Drive Shaft-Bearing assembly into the pump: Still another crude setup! The old bearing is used to protect the new. Once new bearing is flush with the pump housing use the thinner ratchet end of the socket (without the old bearing) to drive it further until it mates with the floor of the recess.
Installing the drive shaft-bearing assembly
5. Reinstall the Snap Ring: Ensure the side of the Snap Ring with rounded edges faces outwards
Snap Ring reinstalled
6. Install the Outer Case on the pump cover: Set the Outer Case as below, setting the grove for the roll pin to align with its hole on the pump cover. The gap in the Outer Case should also face the same direction as below
Outer Case aligned with hole on pump cover
7. Install a new Rubber Seal(black) and Slipper Seal(white or green) into their groove: Rubber seal first, then slipper seal.
Installing the Rubber and Slipper seals.
8. Install the Cam Ring and Roll pin: The dimple on the Cam Ring shown by the arrow should be as shown i.e. pointing up (and not facing downwards so that it is in contact with the pump cover). After installing the Cam Ring, insert the Roll Pin, wiggling around to ensure it enters its hole in the pump cover.
Cam Ring and Roll Pin installed
9. Reinstall the Pump Rotor and Vanes: Make sure out-facing edges of the vanes face outwards and are in contact with the Cam Ring.
Installing the Vanes.
10. Install the Side Plate: Ensure the protruding tip of the Roll Pin enters the highlighted oval hole on the side plate. The other conflicting hole on the side plate is a perfect circle.
Oval hole on the side plate
11. Install the Pump Housing: Wiggle a bit to get the perfect fit.
Installing the pump housing
12. Tighten the Pump Cover bolts: Using a criss-cross pattern in 2 or more sequences. Torque bolts to 20Nm.
13. Install the Pump Housing Cap: before installing the cap, pass a flat-tip screwdriver through the pump housing cap hole and push back on the Cam Ring to ensure it rests against the Outer Case. Once pushed back, install the spring and tighten the housing cap to 29Nm.
14. Reinstall Pump Pulley: Torque pulley nut to 64Nm. A vice is recommended.
Finally, reinstall power steering pump on vehicle using steps from this post. Remember to replace the O-rings for the inlet and outlet hoses to minimise future leaks from these areas.