If you want to maintain your own Accord you will need to raise the car to work on it.
The main jobs you are likely to need to do as a home mechanic which involve raising the car are oil changes and working on the brakes.
If you use ramps these will be fine for oil changes but you won’t be able to do the brakes. So the best option to be able to do both is using a trolley jack and axle stands.
The following diagrams show the jacking points specified by Honda for the 6th and 7th Generation Accords:
For the 7th Generation Saloon and Tourer.
Position the hoist lift blocks (A), on safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
Position the floor jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or rear jacking bracket (B), center the jacking bracket in the jack lift platform (C), and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
Jacking from the front and back means you need a jack which gets high enough to be able to place axle stands on the sill supports at the side of the car.
These pics show the car raised from the front and resting on stands.
I use Halfords 2 Tonne stands myself because they have a flat surface for the car to rest on instead of a V shape, and they use a pin for adjustment rather than a ratchet mechanism. A bit of lino or similar on the stand prevents metal to metal contact.
The front jacking point on the 7th Generation Accord is the cross-beam visible in the next photos.
With the car just coming to rest on the axle stands, I measured the distance between the ground and the jacking point. With the pin in the second hole in the stand the total distance was 42cm. With the pin in the third and highest hole the distance was 50.5cm (see pic – the tape measure itself is 6cm). On top of those measurements the jack has to go a bit higher to get the car on and off the stands.
When raising the car from the front, the handbrake should be released, so the brake isn’t resisting the movement which happens when the car rises and lowers. Once raised the brake should be applied, and the wheels wedged to prevent movement, because if the car rolls off the stands when you are underneath it, it’s probably Goodnight Vienna.
Another thing to remember is NEVER get under the car when it is only supported by a trolley jack – they work on hydraulics with rubber seals, so a seal could go at any time and collapse the jack.
The rear jacking point is the tow rope tie as shown in the first pic. The car looks as shown in the second pic when raised from the rear.
Once done there is no point putting the handbrake on as it only affects the raised rear wheels, but the fronts should be wedged, and the car put in gear.
Jacking Points Guide