7th Generation front brake disc and pad change
Here are some pics of a front disc and pad change.
Comments on photos by number:-
1. Genuine Honda brake discs and pads bought from Holdcroft Honda and delivered by courier.
2. Brake line attached to suspension arm.
3. Undoing line from arm.
4. Removing retaining clip from caliper.
5. Removing plastic cover from caliper slider pin recess, to get at it.
6. Hex/Allen key for caliper slider pin, 7mm IIRC.
7. Removing caliper slider pins, top and bottom.
8. Levering caliper body off caliper bracket using inappropriate tool.
9. Caliper body with brake pad clipped inside brake piston.
10. Caliper body with brake pad pulled out of brake piston leaving view of piston.
11. Removing other brake pad from caliper retaining bracket.
12. Pushing piston back into caliper using Laser Tools brake caliper piston windback tool, available from Halfords or online.
13. Caliper body attached to suspension arms with a luggage/bungee elastic. The heavy caliper body is still attached to the brake hose and if it dangled from the hose it could damage it as well as getting in the way.
14. I must have done this earlier and mixed the photos up because the caliper is still on! But this is a pic of the two screws attaching the brake disc to the hub, which have to come off to remove the disc.
15. Removing the screws using an impact driver. I got mine from Halfords. You hit the back of the driver with a hammer and it undoes the screw.
16. Undoing the two caliper bracket bolts using a 24” breaker bar, mine is a Sealey but Halfords do them too, plus a socket from a socket set. That breaker bar is the best thing since sliced bread – 1000% easier than using a spanner or a ratchet out of a socket set because stubborn nuts and bolts just twist off easily with the extra leverage from the long bar.
17. Pic of the detached caliper bracket taken from under the car looking outwards.
18. Removing the disc. After the screws came out the disc just pulled straight off.
19. Hub with disc removed
20. Spraying the new disc with brake cleaner then wiping it off, to remove the rustproof coating from the disc before I fit it on the car.
21. Fitting the new disc and screwing it on. I used the old screws but if they get mangled it’s probably better to buy new ones from Honda as they won’t cost much. Before I replaced these screws, the caliper mounting brackets, and the caliper slide pins, I put a bit of copper grease on the threads to act as an anti sieze agent which will mean they come off nice and easy next time I do the job.
22. Coating the brake disc contact surfaces on the caliper bracket with copper grease to lubricate and therefore hopefully prevent pad seizure and squeal. Then I bolted the bracket back onto the suspension arm of the car. The bolts have to be tightened up to the correct tightness/torque. You need a torque wrench to do this. I bought mine from Machine Mart who sell them for sensible money. The torque settings are available from the brake how-to posted by IchibanAccord 7th & 8th Generation Honda Accord vital brakes information
23. The pic shows the contact edges of the pad also coated with copper grease.
24. Pad inserted into caliper bracket. IIRC it needed a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to encourage it in.
25. Copper grease on the edge of the piston.
26. The other brake pad has a clip on the back which you just push inside the piston to fit it.
27. Put the caliper body back onto the bracket and refit the slider pins and tighten them to the specified torque which is again stated in IchibanAccord’s post above.
28. Putting the wire retaining clip back. Again it just needed gentle encouragement with the hammer. Using force might well permanently mis-shape the clip which would then need replacing.