As part of the check-over I've been giving my car I thought I'd have a look at the EGR valve.
- Difficulty Level:
This is what happened today.
Tools I needed:
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Rubber mallet
- Short length of wood (Piece of broom stay)
- Old toothbrush & a small, childrens paintbrush
- Vacuum cleaner
- Magnetic tray
- Long reach/grab tool
- Grease/silicone spray for rubber
- A clean, dust free plastic carrier bag
- Latex gloves
- Dust mask
Picture taken after the job, hence brushes were dirty !
I found it useful to refer back to parts on this diagram.
1 Remove engine cover - 10mm socket
2 Disconnect multi-plug ( red arrow) from EGR valve (green arrow)
3 Disconnect multi-plug (top red arrow) from air filter unit (green arrow).
Unscrew 2 x 10mm air filter housing bolts (lower red arrows)
4 Carefully, push off the rubber air inlet pipe (red arrow) in the front of the air filter housing. I used the old broken broom handle, but a small length of wood will do. Do not use anything sharp !
5 Slacken off the large jubilee clip (10mm) (red arrow) and carefully push off the large rubber pipe (green arrow). Be careful not to allow any dirt into this pipe, or to damage the connector left of the green arrow. (In this picture, the air filter multi-plug is still connected, but you should have removed it by now)
6 Remove the air filter unit by lifting and tilting to the left. The front is already free, but the back is held down by the black metal stud (green arrow). A short sharp pull will free the filter housing from the stud.
Be very careful not to damage any of surrounding pipework, cables or sensors.
This was quite fiddly to do, but with a little care and persistence I was able to remove the housing.
The green arrow shows the rear mounting stud.
7 Cover the rear rubber pipe with the clean carrier bag.
11 Remove the 2 bolts (14 & 15 in the diagram above), 12mm socket.
The top bolt (15) (red arrow) was easy to access.
The lower bolt (14) was a little tricky.
Lower bolt (14) (green arrow) with 12mm socket and short bar attached.
Be careful not to damage the water hose (blue arrow).
12 Remove the 2 x 12mm nuts (red arrows)(13 in diagram) and the 12mm bolt (blue arrow)(17 in the diagram)
Slightly better angle showing the 2 nuts and bolt mentioned above.
13 Remove the heat shield (no. 4 in the diagram)
14 Using the piece of wood and rubber mallet, gently tap the EGR valve housing (green arrow) to release it. Carefully pull the metal pipework away from the front of the EGR valve housing and carefully slide the valve off the 2 studs (12 in the diagram) Do not damage the gaskets (5 & 8 in the diagram)
Eventually, the EGR valve is free.
The following pictures show that the unit is completely clear, with only a thin layer of dust.
This was removed with the brushes and vacuum cleaner. It is sensible to wear a mask whilst doing this.
The mounts on the engine were also brushed while the vacuum was on.
I did not do anything to the gasket (5) as it came off undamaged.
Ideally, both gaskets should be changed, but I decided not to as they were fine.
The heat shield (no 4)
Before refitting, the front and rear rubber pipes had a smear of grease applied to the inner lip to aid reassembly.
15 Place gasket no. 5 on the mounting studs on the engine before refitting the EGR valve.
Refitting is then, just the reverse process. The front air filter mounting bolts (red arrows) are a little fiddly to get in. I found it much easier, using the grab tool shown below to start them off and then a socket.
Reconnect the two multi-plugs (green arrows), re-fit the engine cover and that's it.
There was hardly any dirt in the chambers, so I saw no need to dismantle anything else. If it was significantly worse, then I would have stripped down more.
Had I thought about this job more, then I would have bought a new air filter and changed it at the time.
It will do for now, but I see a call to HH on the cards .
If you spot any errors or omissions, please let me know.
Time for a cuppa
EGR Valve Removal & Clean N22A1
PFL Accord i-CTDi 2004MY