There is a DIY on here about cleaning out a pre-facelift EGR valve on an Accord however there are no post lift ones so thought I would do one.
- Difficulty Level:
This is incredibly easy, with the hardest part undoing one bolt, but if you are patient, you will get it. Do this whilst the engine is lukewarm-ish. Found it easier to loosen the bolts which I am imagining is due to the differences in metal temperatures (gotta love science)
I took my EGR off the other day and took a look and cleaned some stuff out of it using just a screwdriver as it was halfway blocked and was determined to revisit it and clean it out properly, hence this DIY.
- 12mm and 10mm socket set with extensions
- 12mm combination spanner with angled heads
- IPA Isoproyl Alcohol Isopropanol
- Toothbrush (I considered using the missus one but then thought she may get a bit upset)
- Small flat screwdriver
- Set of functioning lungs
Remove the engine cover. 4x 10mm nuts holding it in place.
That is the EGR directly to the upper left of the yellow dipstick. It is secured in place with 2 nuts and 4 bolts and a vacuum hose.
Remove the 10mm nut holding the electrical connector to the alternator in place, unplug the alternator, disconnect the plastic plug which holds the loom lower down on the block and move it out of the way. There is a bit of flex in the cable but not a huge amount. This will allow you an extra couple of inches to get to, what is the most difficult part of this job, one of the bolts.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick in place. This can be rotated out of the way and does not need to be removed. It needs to be loosed to physically remove the EGR valve. Unplug the vacuum hose going to the valve.
The most difficult nut is the one in this picture - I started on this one initially as I thought, if I can't get this one, then there is no point continuing. I ended up using a 12mm flare wrench to crack the bolt a bit after spraying it with some lubricant and letting it sit for 10 minutes, and then managed to use a ring and open end spanner to loosen it enough. It was not rusted, and once loose, I could undo the rest with my fingers. I had to get the spanner in between the air con hose and the oil filter holder. I could not get enough swinging space to put a ratchet onto the rear bolt. This nut, the first time, took about 15 minutes to undo due to lack of work space. If I had a small ratchet set or a small 12 mm spanner, it would have been much easier I think.
This was the ONLY way I could find a grip on that bolt. It is in a really awkward position.
Loosen the second bolt closer to the radiator. This one is much easier.
Loosen the two 12 mm nuts by the dipstick which is already loosened. These are easy to access.
It is the lower bolt on that picture.
Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the side of the engine. Again, these just snap free, they are around 2" in length each.
The EGR will just pull away now. Lift it up to remove its base from the feedpipe and pull it towards you to clear the nut studs on the right. This is where you will have to turn the dipstick away to give yourself enough clearance. Be careful to not lose any of the gaskets. There are 2 metal gaskets, one at the bottom and one on the rear of the EGR.
Clean all the crap away. Mine was pretty well clogged and I was impressed I never had a EML light.
This is the base of the EGR valve
This is the rear of the EGR valve where it connects to the engine block
Get cleaning like Lady McBeth. I used a screwdriver to scrape away the build up on both ports. Try not to let anything fall back inside the engine side. Not sure what it would do, but I can't imagine it would be good for it. Get a cloth (I used some old socks from my kids as the material is obviously ribbed) and remove what you can from the engine side. I chose not to spray IPA inside of here as firstly, I didnt know what it would do inside of there and secondly, it wasnt clogged once I had cleaned the initial crud on the port away. Cleaned inside there the best I could and then turned my attention to the EGR valve.
Spray some IPA fluid (thanks Ichiban) inside of the rear of the EGR valve and grab your toothbrush and start scrubbing. The entire pipe is empty of anything delicate to to where it hits the valve, so you can get the toothbrush in there quite far. Anyway, after a lot of spraying and scrubbing, it should look much cleaner.
I was given some advice from a diesel mechanic friend who works for Fiat in Scotland. He advised me to test the EGR valve whilst I had it out. He stated that although it is vacuum operated, it does not need much pressure to operate. He advised that I suck on the vacuum hose, simulating what the car does apparently, and make sure it opens and closes easily. Anyway, I did, took a couple of deep breaths to get the pressure up, but sure enough, suck on the vacuum hose hard enough, and the valve will start opening. Mine opened smoothly, I could not feel any sticking of it and when I removed the pressure, it slapped shut so I am happy that the valve itself is not sticking or causing any issues.
Give the feedpipe a good clean too
I was going to remove it but I was advised that there is no point as it is the evacuation pipe and that the clogging would occur on the above ports and that any crud would block up the valve before it blocks up the pipe. Made sense, it was just a bit sooty, nothing bad whatsoever.
Clean the surfaces of all parts to be rejoined as well as the gasket. The pink mark indicates that that face of the gasket goes onto the rear of the EGR valve.
Wiggle the EGR valve back into place. I put the gasket in place first on the engine side to avoid it getting damaged as I snaked the valve back into place and tighten everything up again don't forget to reconnect the electrical connector for the alternator and bolt the electrical harness and dipstick back into place.
I was impressed with how much more responsive the car was once I cleaned all the junk out of it. Ran smoother, no longer smokes under hard acceleration, and appears to idle better.